Here’s a quick look at how to put the components of the power steering fluid filter back together in the canister. There are lots of variations of the filters and seal rings, and the ETK is not reliable. The basic idea is that there’s only one feed pipe to the pump, and the clean fluid has to arrive there. All the other pipes to the tank are low/moderate pressure returns. All that matters is that there is a good seal between the filter and the bottom of the tank so that the fluid being pulled into the pump actually goes through the filter. Dealer techs often overlooked this detail, and the filter installations can be haphazard enough that no filtration is actually occurring. Whichever variant of the tank is involved, and whatever order the springs and spacers get put back in place, the crucial part is creating a fluid-tight barrier against the relevant surfaces so that fluid has no choice but to pass thru the filter element.

I believe this is the original early style filter, a porous stack of resin paper. Be sure to get the rubber seals with it.

Seals placed on filter element.

This top plate with the rolled edges appears as if the edge should be turned down. That doesn’t work; lip-up is the only way it seals against the rubber ring.

The pipe on the bottom of the tank is the only one one the suction side of the filter.

That little c-clip retaining the spring and washer is the trickiest piece to install. A pair of extra-long handled needle nose pliers is a big help.

The stainless mesh screen can goes over the filter next. There’s also a rubber seal on the bottom of this piece;

make sure it doesn’t get twisted during installation.

Another spring and washer

Top strainer basket and lid spacer.

Easy job, couple hours tops. Then you can start on the myriad hose clamps that let the fluid leak out in the first place.